FAQs

1. Please check the estimated lead time on the items you have purchased. You can usually find this on the website product page or on your order confirmation. If your order is still within this time frame it should be delivered soon, however for peace of mind, we can check delivery dates for you, just give us a call.
2. Contact us

If your estimated delivery date has passed, please get in touch with our sales team and we will be happy to assist with your enquiry.

We offer either courier delivery or collection (if you would like to collect, please contact us first to make sure the product you are wishing to collect is available). Please Note - Collection is unfortunately not available from our Minehead Offices.

For larger items our standard delivery is ‘customer offloading’, however if a tail lift or HIAB delivery is required or there is an issue with access, please give us a ring to find out options available and any costs if applicable.

IMPORTANT – PLEASE READ
Please ensure that the product you are ordering from Tanks Direct is the correct size and suitable for the purpose. Special order, bespoke, or non-stock tanks are not returnable. If you order a tank and find that it is too big, too small, or not suitable for your requirements it can be expensive to return it.
Our cancellation & returns policy explains this in more detail (see Terms & Conditions).

Delivery Charges
Our shipping costs cover most of the UK - however, parts of England, Scottish Highlands and Islands including areas north of the Glasgow / Edinburgh border, Isle of Wight, Channel Islands, Isle of Man, Anglesey, Western Isles, Shetland Islands, Orkney Islands, Isles of Scilly, Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland may cost more.

Please call before ordering if the delivery postcode is listed below. There may be additional shipping costs.

AB, BT, CA, CT, DD, DG, EH, FK,G, GY, IM, IV, JE, KA, KW, KY, LD, LL, ML, PA, PH, PO 30-41 (Isle of Wight), SA, SY, TD, TN, TR, ZE

Southern Ireland
 

Looking to avoid Shipping Charges?

All our tanks are available for collection "ex works", our suppliers are based all over the UK - please call if you wish to collect.

Overseas Orders.
International orders are welcome.
Payment is by IBAN / Swift / Bic, Moneygram and letters of credit.
We regret that credit cards are not accepted for international orders.
A purchase order is required, we will then create a pro-forma invoice, tanks are ordered on clearance of funds.

If you require any additional export documentation (i.e Certificate of Origin,  commercial invoices certified by the Chamber of Commerce) you must notify us before completion of your order as we will have to invoice cost and admin charges to the order.

Please call if you have any questions. Tel: +44 (0)1643 703358

Collection is available for most items, however, not all products are available in one location. Please contact us to find out where you can collect before placing your order.

Sorry, we only deliver on weekdays.

For our larger tanks, we offer ‘Customer offloading’ delivery. This entails the customer to acquire the right manpower and/or machinery to help unload the tank/s from the delivery vehicle.

If you require assistance with offloading, we may be able to offer a tail lift (lowers the tank to the ground) or HIAB (lorry with a mounted crane to winch the tank off the delivery vehicle). Please contact us if this is required for delivery.

Unless a hi-ab delivery has been booked at additional cost, it is the customer's responsibility to offload with suitable equipment on the day of delivery and a failed delivery may result in additional charges.

We recommend installers and/or plant hire & materials for install such as excavators, aggregates etc are not booked until you are in receipt of the goods. Tanks Direct cannot be held responsible for costs incurred due to unforeseen delays, please see our terms for more details.

If you have any questions regarding your delivery please contact the Sales Team on 01643 703358.

This may be possible depending on how far your order has been processed. Please contact us as soon as you can so we can try and avoid any costs already incurred being passed onto you.

It’s always best if you can be there to check the goods before signing for them and to avoid any re-delivery charges that may apply.

For smaller orders delivered by Royal Mail or other courier services, the delivery driver will leave a card at the address with details on how to proceed with collecting from their nearest depot or arranging the re-delivery.

For larger items which are delivered by a pallet service, this may incur an additional delivery charge to re-arrange the service. Please contact our sales team if you need more information on re-arranging a delivery.

When placing your order, please write in the customer comments where you would like the delivery to be left, e.g. in the porch, behind the gate etc. If you are unable to take delivery, please give the customer sales team a ring, and they will be happy to try and rearrange the delivery to a date that suits. Failure to let us know if no one is in to take delivery, may lead to additional costs for a missed delivery. Any goods left in safe place are left at the customer's own risk. 

Some products are available on a next day service, cut off times vary. Please contact us for more details.

Each product has their own specific lead time, which is the time it takes from placing your order until it is delivered to your chosen address. This includes manufacturing and processing times. The lead times can be found on the product page.

We try to update the lead times weekly, however if the lead times changes and you have placed an order, we will contact you as soon as we can.

If you require a product sooner than the lead time advertised, please give the sales team a ring to see if we can accommodate this for you.

To place an order for a large or bulk quantity, please contact us with the product details, quantities, and required delivery address and we would be happy to quote for you.

We can provide quotations for any of our products or bespoke products. Please provide us with the following so we can quote correctly –

Billing and shipping address, if different

Contact name and number

Purchase order, if applicable.

We aim to respond within 24 hours, during working hours, for the request sent, however bespoke items can take up to 48 hours.

There is no minimum quantity requirement for the majority of our products. However, if any of our products require a minimum quantity, it will be clearly stated on product page before purchasing.

Our customer sales team would be happy to place an order over the phone for you, along with answering any question you may have regarding our products.

If you are experiencing trouble with placing an order on our website, please contact with our sales team, who will be happy to assist with your requests.

This may be possible depending on how far your order has been processed. Please contact us as soon as you can so we can try and avoid any costs already incurred being passed onto you.

If you receive a faulty item or an item damaged on delivery, please take photos of the issue and email us at [email protected]. One of the team will respond as soon as possible.

You may receive more than one delivery for different items in your order. To check this please contact our sales team.

Payment can be made via bank transfer using the details shown on your invoice, by cheque, or by credit/debit card online here

We are also happy to take card payments over the phone, call our friendly sales team on 01643 703358.

We accept all major credit and debit cards, plus BACS payment or cheque.

Your order will start to be processed as soon as it is received, if you wish to add items or change any part of your order, please contact us as soon as possible and we will try our best to accommodate this for you.

We will always aim to match or even offer a better price against any genuine quote. See here for terms and conditions and how to get a ‘Price Match’ (link to price match page similar to  https://www.fueltankshop.co.uk/information/15-price-match ?? ) We can’t guarantee we can beat all prices; we will however do our very best to try.

Please contact us via email [email protected] or by phone 01643 703358 and we will be able to send a copy of your invoice for you.

If you wish to return goods, please complete the form by following the link on this page to provide further information.

Once your request is approved, a valid Returns Authorisation Number (RAN) will be issued to initiate the returns process along with information on how & where to return your order along with any costs involved.

Please DO NOT return any goods without this authorisation. Goods cannot be accepted without this.

Returns are not accepted at our Minehead Office, please wait until we contact you before returning any goods. 

Returns Form

Unfortunately, we cannot exchange goods once your order has been delivered. The returns process above should be followed and a new order for the required goods should be placed.

Your refund will be processed as soon as we receive confirmation that your goods have been successfully delivered back to the correct warehouse in re-saleable condition.

If you would like to check if your returned goods have been received back, please contact us and we can advise further.

Restocking and administration fees of up to 30% + VAT of the total order value may be chargeable to our business customers only.

If you receive a message that says your email address/password isn't recognised, there's a few things worth checking:

• Make sure you are using the same email address and password you registered with.
• If you can't remember your password, click on the 'forgotten password' link on the sign in page. You'll be prompted to enter your email address and we'll send you an email with a link that will allow you to create a new password for your account.

If after this you still can't sign in, contact our Customer service department giving as much detail as you can about the issue, including screen shots of any error message you get and what you've done so far to try to resolve it.

Sometimes we will not be able to give a price on site due to a number of reasons including it being a custom product.  If no price is shown, please contact our customer service department via email or phone and they will be able to get a price from our suppliers for you as quickly as possible

To sign up to be an account customer please navigate to Trade customers at the top of the home page.  This will then present you with a trade registration form to complete.

To sign in use the Login link at the top of the page then sign in with your account credentials.  This will then bring you to your account and navigate to ‘My details’ once here you will be able to edit your details then press update.

If you have any queries regarding your statements, please contact our customer service department via email or telephone and they will be happy to assist you.

A bund is a container which can hold liquids that prevent leaks and spillage from tanks and pipes.

The regulations state that a bund must hold 110% of the amount of liquid in your tank. If you choose to have an external bund rather than a bunded tank, the important thing is to size it correctly for the tank contained in the bund to hold 110% liquid and then keep it covered so that rainwater does not fill the bund.

When multiple tanks share a bund, the capacity is based on the largest tank.

We offer a wide range of tanks suitable for boats. Whether its for drinking water, waste water or where space is an issue, flexible water tanks. Our boat storage tanks and containers, are made from a high quality, durable polyethylene and are an ideal storage solution for use on boats. Available in a variety of shapes and capacities, ranging from 40 litres to 300 litre.

We offer a small range of tanks which are suitable for keeping fish in, however some of our fish tanks are designed as fish holding tanks for short periods of time. 

If you require more guidance on which tanks might be suitable, please give our Sales team a ring.

We would be happy to send you the relevant information regarding the product you are interested. Please send us an email or call us with the information you require and we will endeavour to do our best to answer your questions or contact the manufacturer for the information.

All our products come with a manufacturers warranty. To see how long the warranty is for a certain product, please go to the product data sheet or contact us for more information.

If a warranty claim is required, please let us know the order number, images and descriptions of the fault, where we would be happy to forward this onto the manufacturer for you.

As we are an online business, we do not have a store to be able to view the products. You can however view most items before you buy, not all products are available in just one location so please contact us to find out where you can view.

Alternatively, you can download the product brochures for each product for more information or contact us if the information you require is not visible.

Water tanks can be classified as ‘potable’ and ‘non potable’. If you are storing clean water for human consumption, whether it be for drinking, prepping food or cleaning dishes etc, then a potable water tank is what you are after. All potable tanks must conform to the WRAS (Water Regulations Advisory Scheme) so that the liquid is safe for human consumption.

Non-potable tanks are for the safe storage of non-drinking water or for ‘not suitable’ for human consumption, in many different environments and applications. Non-potable tanks can be used in applications like rainwater harvesting, irrigation, agriculture & horticulture and commercial purposes where mains water is not available.

The difference in classification between the two comes from the materials used during the manufacturing process, specifically the type of plastic used to line the inside of the tank which comes into contact with the contained water. Non potable tanks are more porous, making it easier for the bacteria to grow and can sometimes let off gases which can contaminate the water. The WRAS approved material lines the inside of the tank, making the tank fit for human consumption, either ingested or used on the skin.

The majority of our water tanks come with an outlet as standard. We can offer a range of water tanks where the tanks can either ‘Drilled’ or ‘Undrilled’. ‘Drilled’ meaning allowing water to escape from the tank via the outlet, whereas ‘Undrilled’ is when the outlet will remain sealed, preventing liquid from coming out and ensuring the contents of the tank is only touching plastic.

If the position of the outlet is required in an alternative position to the standard one offered or extra to the one positioned, we can offer a plastic Fusion socket. This can be welded anywhere on the tank using a drawing supplied by us, positions marked out by you, then fitted by the manufacturer.   

Plain tanks (with no outlets) can also be offered.

If you require a plastic fusion socket or a plain tank, then please contact our Customer Service Team, who will be happy to help with your requirements.

We offer a range of tap kits, each displaying the size of the hosetail and the outlet size the kit will suit. Tap Kit 5 (TPK5) is the best solution if you require a garden hose to be fitted. Our range of Hosetail kits allows you to attach a hose or pipe to the tank, leak-free. They are designed for continuous flow and come in varying sizes depending on the outlet.

All our tap kits come with a Jubilee clip and PDFE tape for that secure fit.

Baffled water tanks are tanks with an intergral wall system, which is primarily designed to strengthen and support the structure of the tank, when the tank is full of water.

Due to the structure of the baffles they can also be used for transporting water. The Baffles distrupt the movement of water, from surging from one side to the other. However, if you are transporting water, water tanks can be extremely hazardous when transporting large volumes of water. Please make sure the water tanks are installed and secured correctly, by a suitable qualified person before transportation. Baffled water tanks are an ideal solutions for car valeters, window cleaners or anyone who has to transport liquids using plastic water storage tanks and containers.

Plastic water tanks can be made of lots of different materials, however the majority of tanks we offer are made from either a medium density polyethylene (MDPE) or a high density polyethylene (HDPE).

UK hose pipe diameters range from ½” to ¾” inch diameters. The majority of standard size garden hoses are 1/2” BSP, however we do offer accessories for the ½3/4” hose, if required.

To safely fill an IBC first make sure that the pallet, cage and bottle and valve are suitable for use with the intended product. Ensure that the valve is securely tighten to the inner bottle and that the valve is closed and that the drip cap is secured and tightened. Check that the inside of the bottle is clean. When hot  filling product  do not  exceed 65°C. When bottom  filling make sure that  the vents are functioning correctly or open the top cap.  Do not over fill the IBC.  After filling, if the product has a UN number, ensure that the lid seal is correctly  positioned and tighten the screw cap to 70-80 Newton/Meters.

Do not lift IBCs from the top frame. Ensure that the fork truck tines are fully inserted under the IBC before lifting. Ensure that the vehicle floor is in good condition and free of all nails etc. that could puncture the IBC. Always transport IBCs with the correct labelling attached to the ID Plate.

Always secure IBCs to prevent possible movement during transit.

If you would like to attach a garden hose to your IBC- HFUD/2063 would be the adaptor required. Warm the hose to help in pushing the hose onto the adaptors barb, if possible raise the IBC (on wooden pallets) to assist with gravity flow

However if a 2 inch male BSP is required then the  016136 + 1069497 would be recommended. For those who wish to attach other items to the IBC valve, this adaptor turns the valve’s buttress thread into a female 2 inch BSP fitting more common here in the UK

If a 1 inch Male BSP is what you are after then the  31PB24 is the right choice, however if you require a 1” female BSP then 31PN15C is he right adaptor.

If you wish to fit a 1” Male or 1” Female BSP (as mentioned above) - 31PB24 or 31PN15C to an IBC then a 016136 & 1069497 is required.

Yes, depending on the pallet type, our IBCs can be stacked as follows whether empty or full:

MX IBCs - with metal or plastic pallets - Up to 4 High (with a maximum SG of 1.6)

SX IBCs - with metal pallets - Up to 4 High (with a maximum SG of 1.6)

LX IBCs - with wooden or plastic pallets - Up to 3 High (with a maximum SG of 1.4)

Glass Reinforced Plastic tanks are made from high quality GRP material manufactured to BS EN 13280:2001, are suitable for all cold water applications, insulated tanks are also suitable for external applications, and are fully WRAS approved.

Most GRP tanks are supplied fully pre-insulated with PU foam fully encapsulated within the GRP laminate, GRP tanks come in a wide range of standard sizes and can also be supplied bespoke to suit your specific size and configuration requirements.

An AG type airgap provides mains water protection from fluid category 1-4 with standard lid arrangement for an inlet float valve fitted in the body of the tank, and an AB type air gap, also known as category 5, is when a raised float valve housing is fitted with a spill over weir in addition to the overflow in the body of the tank.

1 & 2 piece tanks are available from 90 to 12,000 litres, sectional tanks can be supplied from 125 to 2,000,000 litres. Usually where access permits a 1 piece can be used without any assembly needed, if access is restricted a 2 piece tank can be installed and the top and bottom halved bolted together on site. Sectional tanks are for where access restrictions or other conditions deny the installation of one and two piece tanks. They comprise of individual bolt-up panels which are assembled on site.

A float valve will usually be sized to suit your incoming mains water supply, so if you have a 25 mm incoming mains you will need a 1” float valve. If we supply the float valve with your tank we will size and supply the overflow to suit this.

The Water Regulation Advisory Scheme sets legal requirements for the design, installation, operation and maintenance of plumbing systems, water fittings and water-using appliances. These Regulations and Bye laws apply in all types of premises supplied, or to be supplied with water by a water company. All of our insulated GRP tanks are fully WRAS approved, so can be connected to a mains cold water supply. These regulations do not apply where a property uses a private water supply and does not have a supply of water from a water company.

Our GRP tanks are usually supplied without any connections, as many customers supply and fit their own. However we can supply a comprehensive range of items including inlet float valves, outlet connections and other fittings to suit your individual application. Please contact us to discuss or request a quote for your requirements.

If you require a booster pump, you must fit a break tank to the incoming mains water supply to connect to the pump set. Our GRP tanks are ideal for break tanks. We can supply a wide range of booster sets where a break tank is needed.

Yes, we can supply a quote for cleaning existing tanks. We can also arrange to clean and disinfect newly installed tanks as part of the supply and assembly service on all new 1, 2 & sectional tanks.

A flat well-drained location is the ideal choice of a site that should be free from rocks, stones, tree stumps or any other sharp objects that may chafe or puncture the tank. On rough or stony ground sharp objects should be removed and ideally a layer of sand laid to provide a base. Maximum care must be taken to avoid placing tanks on ground having a cross slope as the tank is liable to “roll away” when being filled.

Not always, if the ground is free from debris and sharps then you can use these tanks without a ground sheet however, we do recommend using a ground sheet to prolong the life of the bladder tank

This can be done from the water mains or through a pump with the relevant connector fitted to attach to the bladder tank. This must start slowly (up to max 490 litres per minute) then increased to a maximum of 1,000 litres per minute dependent on tank capacity

This can be done by gravity or pumped, the tank may have to be lifted slightly to empty any remaining liquid

Our bladder tanks are quite easy to maintain. The surface should kept be clean of debris and washed down occasionally. The inside can be cleaned through a small hatch using a hose pipe then drained away

Small cuts and abrasions can be repaired using our repair kit. Larger cuts/splits may have to be repaired at our factory (for a fee)

PVC bladder tanks can store most liquids except fuels and certain acids, this requires a special material so please inquire. We can manufacture a bladder tank to store pretty much any liquid but please check with us regarding your specific application

Rainwater harvesting is the collection and storage of rainwater, instead of letting it  be dispersed into the ground. There are various rainwater harvesting methods available but generally rainwater is collected from roof-like surfaces and redirected to a rainwater harvesting tank, either above the ground or below.

Rainwater harvesting has traditionally been used for watering the garden but, thanks to new technology, a rainwater harvesting system can be plumbed into your home’s existing pipework so that you can harvest rainwater to flush your toilets, wash your clothes and many other non-human consumption related applications. According to the Rainwater Harvesting Association, you could reduce your water consumption by as much as 40% which will lower your water bills if you’re on a water meter.

If the position of the outlet is required in an alternative position to the standard one offered or extra to the one positioned, we can offer a plastic Fusion socket. This is a plastic outlet which can be welded anywhere on the tank using a drawing supplied by us, positions marked out by you, then fitted by the manufacturer.   

Plain tanks (with no outlets) can also be offered.

If you require a plastic fusion socket or a plain tank, then please contact our Customer Service Team, who will be happy to help with your requirements.

Under Environment Agency Septic Tank General Binding Rules, if your septic tank discharges into surface water, like a stream, river, ditch, surface water drain etc., it should have been replaced with a full sewage treatment plant by the 1st January 2020. By not carrying out the replacement, you could be liable to a hefty fine.

At Tanks Direct we stock a wide range of sewage treatment plants from leading manufacturers including Klargester Biodisc, Klargester Biotec and Harlequin Hydroclear. A sewage treatment plant removes contaminants from wastewater using the growth of bacteria to break down the sewage. They produce cleaner and more environmentally friendlier effluent. Domestic sewage treatment plants are the perfect alternative when it isn’t legal to have a septic tank.

If you are unable to connect to a public sewer, building regulations state you’ll need a sewage treatment plant, septic tank or cesspool to manage wastewater.

Cesspools hold sewage in a tank with no outlet or facilities to treat the waste. When the tank is full, the waste needs to be collected by a lorry tanker and taken away for disposal. A cesspool may suit you if the ground is unsuitable for wastewater to soak away or if the site is close to a drinking water supply. They are generally a cheaper option to get installed. Be warned though, the wastewater inside your tank is not treated and having the waste collected regularly can get pricey. You should also note that cesspools are banned in Scotland and used usually only as a last resort in the rest of the UK.

Sewage treatment plants, on the other hand, treat your wastewater by creating an environment that allows waste-degrading bacteria to flourish so that you can discharge your treated waste into a ditch or stream. They are affordable, clean and treat sewage so that it has minimal impact on the environment. They do, however, require regular maintenance and an electricity supply.

Septic tanks use a multiple tank system that separates the wastewater into solids and liquids. They can treat and discharge the liquid part of the sewage, leaving the solid waste requiring collection and disposal by a tanker. These are ideal for small developments or single dwellings. You’ll need to ensure you have a drainage field or mound that is porous enough for the liquid effluent to percolate as septic tanks can no longer be discharged into a watercourse under new UK laws. They are cheap to install and only require desludging once or twice a year.

You will need a wastewater tank on your property if you are unable to connect to a public sewer. If you're thinking of installing a wastewater tank on your property, we'd advise you to start by researching the suitability of sewage treatment plants, septic tanks and cesspools to get an understanding of how they work and their individual benefits and limitations. If you need any help or advice, please feel free to call our friendly team. We can help with advice on which treatment plants will be suitable for your situation and advise you on whether they require any planning permissions or permits to install.

 A cesspool, also known as a cesspit, is an underground tank that collects wastewater and sewage. There is no outlet to disperse the waste or facility to treat it — it simply stores wastewater and sewage until it is collected by a tanker and taken away for disposal. They typically have a manhole for access and the only piping is to release gasses which accumulate in the tank. The contents of your cesspool must be removed regularly. How often will depend on the size of your tank and how much wastewater you are producing, but typically you will want your cesspool emptied by a licensed waste handler every month.

You may need a cesspool if your property is not connected to a public sewer network or for holiday homes, camp sites and places where the discharge of effluent into the ground is not possible due to unsuitable soil conditions. You do not need a permit to install a cesspool unless the Environment Agency tells you that you do and they do not have to comply with the general binding rules that apply to septic tanks. However, you will need planning permission and building regulations approval to install your cesspool.

 A septic tank is buried underground, just like a cesspool. Unlike a septic tank however, a cesspool does not process or treat wastewater and sewage — it simply stores it. Septic tank systems treat the wastewater, treating the liquid wastewater so that it can drain away into a stream or soakaway. The system is simple but effective — wastewater enters a chamber where solids can settle and decompose at the bottom. The liquid at the top flows into a second chamber where any finer remaining solids are removed from the liquid and through to the soakaway. Solid waste from septic tanks will occasionally need collecting by a licensed disposal specialist, in much the same way as a cesspool, but much less often. That’s why having a cesspool can become quite costly long-term as waste disposal services don’t come cheap. Cesspools are also a less eco-friendly choice as untreated effluent could overflow into the surrounding environment. Septic tanks are safer as the wastewater is treated. 

Cesspools are usually used as a last resort or for temporary drainage situations. You may need a cesspool if your property isn’t connected to the public sewer network and where discharging effluent into the ground is not possible, such as holiday homes and camp sites. Cesspools do not have to comply with general binding rules that apply to septic tanks and you won’t need a permit to install one unless the Environment Agency tells you otherwise. It is important, however, to obtain planning permission and building regulations approval to install your cesspool.

For septic tanks, the recent changes in regulations state that they can no longer discharge into surface water, for example streams, rivers, ditches, drains etc. and if yours does you should replace it immediately with a full sewage treatment plant under Environment Agency Septic Tank General Binding Rules. As of 1st January 2020, all septic tanks that discharge into waterways must be either replaced, using sewage treatment plants with full BS EN 12566-3 documentation, the discharge to the waterway impeded and redirected to a drain field, designed and made according to the up-to-date British Standard BS6297 2007.

With good and regular maintenance, your basement pump should last for many years. There are several factors that will affect the longevity of your basement drainage pump. Regular and intense use will affect the lifespan of your basement pump, so if you have a below ground property with a high level of water ingress, your basement drainage pump is likely to be in a state of constant use. Like any machinery, the more it is in use the quicker its lifespan will decline. Equally, if your basement has been fitted with a pump that is too small, the pump will have to work much harder, shortening its lifespan. It’s also important that your basement drainage pump is installed correctly — if the motor doesn’t engage properly or the connection to the piping isn’t quite right, you could find that your pump works itself to an early grave. A lack of maintenance can also negatively affect the lifespan of your basement pump so keep a regular maintenance schedule to ensure your pump stays healthy.

Sump pumps are the same as basement drainage pumps. They are used to remove water that has accumulated in a water-collecting basin and then pumped to the nearest drainage point. Sump pumps are commonly found in basements that are below ground level.

A basement sewer pump usually needs to be installed then your sewer line level is below the main sewer system. The pump collects the wastewater from your basement bathroom or toilet into a tank and, when the sewer pump is turned on, the motor rotates creating a centrifugal force that pushes the wastewater into the impeller. It is then discharged into the main sewage network or a septic tank.

Yes we offer the full range of Klargester replacement parts, please see our waste water parts section for more: /parts-accessories/waste-water-accessories/c946

A cesspool (sometimes called a cesspit) is just a holding tank for wastewater. It only has one pipe connection fitted, that lets the waste into the tank. There is no treatment of the waste, so the sewage just builds up in the tank and needs to be emptied by a sewage disposal tanker every month or so (depending on how big the cesspool is and how many people are using it).

 A septic tank is a step up from a cesspool. A septic tank has two pipe connections - one for the inlet, that lets wastewater in, and an outlet, that discharges treated wastewater into a soak away. Like a cesspool, a septic tank will need to have sludge emptied by a disposal tanker, but not at the rate of a cesspool. Septic tanks are a much better and cleaner sewage system. They treat the waste, so it can safely interact with our environment and require emptying less often, saving you money.

There are 3 options available:

(1) Connect to a main sewer if possible
(2) install a drainage field or
(3) install a sewage treatment plant which treats the wastewater, producing a clear overflow that is environmentally friendly and suitable for discharging.

To see our full range of sewage treatment plants, visit our dedicated sewage treatment plant page.

Within the tank, there should be lots of bacterial activity, digesting the organic waste in the effluent layer and sludge layer. The rate of digestion is dependent on the bacteria present, the amount of oxygen and the amount of inbound wastewater. If the bacteria can’t keep up digesting the organic material in the wastewater, two things happen. Firstly, there will be a build-up of sludge that will require pumping out. Secondly, undigested effluent waste in the middle liquid layer will flow straight into the soak away, increasing the chances of soak away drainage and blockages.

If your septic tank system is not in good working order, it can be a serious risk to both health and the environment. You also have a legal responsibility to maintain your septic tank system. In looking after your septic tank, it will have to be emptied less frequently, and this will save you money. A septic tank system can also be costly to replace if it fails.

Follow these key steps to keep your septic tank system healthy:

1. Don’t overload the tank
   Consider how much waste might be running into the tank in one go. If you have multiple showers running at the same time, as well as the washing machine and the dishwasher, the tank will be receiving a significant amount of liquid in one go. While that liquid may not hold excessive amounts of organic waste, it could stir up the waste in the tank, mixing sludge and scum into the clear water middle layer, which will then overflow into the drain field and soak away. Be mindful and try to balance what flows out into the tank, as much as possible, throughout the day.
    
2. Reduce the amount of water you’re using
   Not only will this lower your water bills, reducing the volume of water you use will improve the performance of your septic tank system. There are several ways to do this:

• Consider more efficient toilet cisterns
• Use plugs in sinks and basins
• Take shorter showers/use less bathwater
• Use eco settings on washing machines and dishwashers

Think about what you’re flushing

Sanitary products, wipes and cotton buds contain plastics in some shape or form, and the good bacteria in your tank can only digest organic waste. Therefore, you must never flush these types of products. Harsh chemical products, like bleaches and paint strippers, are going to kill the bacterial population in your tank, resulting in poor waste digestion and will negatively affect your septic tank performance. Fats, oils and grease may create blockages and are a major component of scum layers on the surface of the tank.

If your septic tank system is in good working order you should have the following:

• Your household drainage should be quick to clear, and toilets should not be backing up
• There should be no smell from your tank and the cover should be accessible and well fitting
• The soak away should be dry not swampy, smelly or have prolific grass growth
• A pale liquid with little or no smell should come from the discharge pipe. It should not be dark, smelly or contain solids
• Makes sure to keep deep-rooted trees and plants at least 30 m away from your system. Keep the grass nearby short.

If any of the above is showing signs that your septic tank system is not in proper working order, you must get it repaired or replaced by a credited installer.

To keep your septic tank performing as well as possible, we recommend you have it emptied regularly. This will reduce the risk of a build-up of sludge, which can lead to problems with your system. This could be anything from an unpleasant smell to a complete system failure. It can be tricky and expensive to fix issues with your septic tank, so make sure you get the tank emptied regularly and before these issues occur, and make sure the company you use to empty your septic tank is registered to do so.

Of course, how often it should be emptied will depend on several factors including the size of your septic tank (a small one will need emptying more often than a larger one), the number of people using the system and what you are flushing into the septic tank.

It is important that you recognise the signs that your septic tank is full – to save you money, stress, and ensure that your environment is kept safe. Here are some signs that may indicate your tank is full:

• Wastewater overflows into the drainage area, and you see pools of water appearing near your septic tank.
• Water starts to drain away slowly from sinks, drains and toilets.
• You notice nasty odours.
• Grass above the septic tank or drainage area is especially green as there is a lot of water around.
• Sewage begins to back up as the wastewater has nowhere to go. This is the worst, and most expensive way, to find out your tank is full!

Different areas of Great Britain have different requirements: -

• England – No charge
• Northern Ireland – Yes, a charge applies
• Scotland – Yes, a charge applies
• Wales – Yes, no charge applies in most cases

If you own a property which you rent, or you are a tenant yourself, it can become a little less clear who has the responsibility to empty the septic tank. Maintenance and responsibility can be written into the tenancy agreement. If you are a landlord renting out a property with a septic tank you may need to put measures in place if you want the tenant to take responsibility for the septic tank. You may need an inspection or service after the end of any tenancy period. As a tenant, if it is written into the tenancy agreement that you have responsibility for the septic tank, you might also want to insist upon an inspection to ensure you aren’t inheriting any issues you would then be liable to pay for is one way to do this. Checking the schedule of maintenance and the obligations is another before any serious issues can occur. Following the guidelines of the septic tank is important too.

You should have your septic tank system regularly maintained in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. If these are not available, ask your local maintenance company for advice. This will save costly repairs or replacement of the sewage system in the long term.

If your tank does not comply with the “General Binding Rules” you must apply for a permit. To see the General Binding Rules go to https://www.gov.uk/guidance/general-binding-rules-small-sewage-discharge-to-a-surface-water

Septic tanks should be at least 7 metres away from any dwelling. They should also be located within 30 metres of an access point so that the tank can be emptied.

• Don’t flush anything other than bodily waste and toilet paper down the toilet
• Don’t dispose of grease or oil down any drain – wipe out pans and pour fat into a container to be disposed of in the bin
• Don’t put paints, solvents or chemicals down the drain
• Don’t try to unblock pipes with caustic soda or drain cleaners. Try boiling water instead
• Don’t connect rainwater pipes to your septic tank

If your current system discharges directly into a water course, you will need to upgrade your system. To go through your options give us a call, and we can talk you through the various options.

Find out more about our sewage treatment systems here

It is the level of the soil pipe entering the septic tank or treatment system.

If the flow from your system can not release without help, i.e. required to be uplifted you would need a pump to help with this.

The size of the pump required is down to the rise to main from the tank to the sewer, please call us for further help on this.

Primary wastewater treatment

The primary treatment of wastewater removes material that will either float to the top or settle to the bottom. The wastewater is temporarily held in a settling tank, where the heavier solids sink to the bottom and lighter bits float to the surface. Once settled, these solids are held back while the rest of the liquid is moved through to the secondary phase of wastewater treatment.

Secondary wastewater treatment

A deeper and more rigorous secondary phase of wastewater treatment uses aerobic biological processes to substantially degrade the biological content of the waste, reducing common biodegradable contaminants down to safe levels. There are three ways to do this: biofiltration that uses filters to ensure that any additional sediment is removed from the wastewater, aeration which increases oxygen saturation by introducing air to wastewater and oxidation ponds that allow wastewater to pass through natural bodies of water for a set period before being retained for two to three weeks.

Tertiary wastewater treatment

Tertiary wastewater treatment aims to improve water quality to meet domestic and industrial standards. It involves removing pathogens to ensure water is safe for drinking

A domestic sewage treatment plant works by breaking down solid waste to produce a cleaner, more environmentally friendly effluent. Wastewater and sewage are supplied to the primary tank, where the solids separate and from the liquid and then flows into the biozone chamber. Here, a pump airs the waste and friendly bacteria is used to condense the organic matter, breaking it down. When the waste leaves the final waste chamber, it is 95% clean and ready for dispersal into soak away systems, subject to consent from the relevant environmental agency.

Although the two are often mistaken as the same thing, there are some distinct differences between the two. A sewage treatment plant creates a clean, environmentally friendly effluent which can be discharged directly to a watercourse. They typically require electricity to operate and need regular servicing and emptying. A septic tank only requires emptying once a year, doesn’t use any electricity, and doesn’t require servicing. However, they produce a very polluting waste product, which must be dispersed to a soak away and the septic pollutants go through further handling by the natural aerobic soil bacteria.

It is strongly recommended that a suitably trained and qualified professional installs your sewage treatment plant. You could be faced with hefty repair costs, fines and even legal issues (that will be far greater than the cost of hiring a professional installer) if any part of your private sewage system is installed incorrectly. If you are confident you have the skills to do this yourself, you should have step-by-step instructions on how to do it from the manufacturer of your chosen tank, plus all the health and safety measures that should be taken. The following will give you a brief guide on what will be involved in the installation, but always ensure you adhere to the manufacturer’s guidance as some steps may vary.

Inspect tank for damage

Although our tanks will have been fully tested and checked before being dispatched to you, make sure to thoroughly inspect the tank for any damage caused during transportation as, once the tank is installed, we may not be able to accept your return.

Placing the tank

Ensure your hole is large enough for the both the tank and the recommended backfill. Prepare a base for the tank and carefully lower the tank into the hole, using the recommended lifting system, checking that the inlet and outlet orientation is correct. Ensure your tank is level and use the correct backfill, which might be concrete, gravel or sand, but check the manufacturer’s manual to see what they advise and follow their steps for adding the backfill.

Installing the inlet and outlet

Installing the inlet and the outlet should be straightforward, but it is always worth contacting a qualified plumber if you are unsure. Follow the manufacturer’s installation guide to connect the pipework. For easier maintenance access, some manufacturers advise the installation of an inspection chamber before and after the treatment to make life easier should any problems arise in the future.

Wire up the electrics

All electrical work should be conducted by a qualified electrician. The installation manual will detail what is required.

This is a very simplistic guide of what is required to install your sewage treatment plant. In addition to these steps, you may also need to install a soak away to complete your system.

It is highly recommended that you fully understand and adhere to all the regulations that will affect your installation and running of a sewage treatment plant. If you are the property owner where the tank is being installed, this is your sole responsibility, and you could be liable for heavy fines or repair costs if things are done incorrectly.

Depending on where you are in the UK, there are different rules relating to sewage treatment plants. You may need to apply for a Consent to Discharge licence from the Environment Agency, that says your wastewater is clean enough not to damage local wildlife. If you’re discharging less than 5,000 litres per day to surface water, you won’t need one.

You must apply for a permit:

• If you discharge more than 2,000 litres per day to the ground
• If you discharge to a well, borehole or other deep structure
• Where the tank is within an Environment Agency groundwater protection (SPZ) zone 1 (find out more at www.environment-agency.gov.uk).

If you are in any doubt whether you require a permit, check the government’s website here. 

If you can’t connect to a public sewer, building regulations state you’ll need either a cesspool, septic tank or sewage treatment plant, ideally from a trustworthy brand such as Klargester or Clearwater.

Cesspools

A cesspool or cesspit is a sewage holding tank. The waste isn’t treated and there is no outlet (only vents to allow gas build-up to escape). Waste simply flows in to be stored and then, when the tank is full, a lorry tankers it away for disposal. A cesspool is a good option if the ground is unsuitable for waste to soak away or for sites that are close to drinking water supplies, as the waste is safely contained before being taken away.

Advantages of a cesspool:

• Cheap
• Low installation cost
• Low maintenance

Disadvantages of a cesspool:

• Sewage isn’t treated
• Requires regular emptying which can cost up to, £300 each time

Cesspools are banned in Scotland

Septic Tanks

Septic tanks can treat and discharge the liquid part of the sewage. Waste enters the first tank, where gravity separates the liquids from the solids. The liquid effluent flows out of the tank onto land, where it is cleaned as it percolates through the soil. Some sunken solids, or ‘sludge’, is broken down by natural bacteria, but the rest will need to be taken away by lorry. Septic tanks are suitable for single houses or small developments, but you’ll also need a drainage field that is porous enough to allow the waste to percolate through.

Advantages of a septic tank

• Relatively low installation cost
• Relatively low cost to run
• Only require emptying (or ‘desludging’) once or twice a year

Disadvantages of a septic tank

• Your ground must be porous enough to allow the liquid effluent to discharge
• New laws state septic tanks can no longer be discharged into a watercourse

Sewage Treatment Plants

Sewage treatment plants are suitable for everything - with small-scale, affordable domestic units available for single homes, to large-scale, commercial units available for large developments. They all work in the same way, creating an environment that allows helpful waste-degrading bacteria to flourish. Sewage treatment plants are the only option if you want to discharge your treated waste to a ditch or stream.

Advantages of a sewage treatment plants:

• Affordable
• Clean
• sewage treated to a higher standard so that it has minimal negative impact on the environment.

Disadvantages of a sewage treatment plants:

• Requires an electricity supply
• while the volume of solid matter is greatly reduced, it’ll still need pumping into a lorry for disposal.
• Require regular maintenance

It is advisable to get the buildup of sludge in your system cleared and the mechanical and electronic components serviced every six to twelve months.

If you have high levels of fats and grease you should use a grease trap. This would be fitted before discharging to the sewer.

Damage to sewer systems from FOGS can be extremely costly to local authorities and so there is much legislation surrounding best practices and correct disposal of fats, oils and grease, particularly for commercial food premises. If your property is connected to the mains drainage system and you’re serving hot food to the public or your staff, Building Regulations (document H, section 2.21) state you should have a grease trap or another effective means of grease removal fitted.

If you operate a commercial kitchen, such as a café, a pub, a takeaway service, a restaurant, a bakery or a staff canteen, a grease trap could help you to effectively manage your FOGS.  

It is estimated that nearly half a million tonnes of grease and fat enter the UK sewerage system each year, causing blockages and damage to pipes and wastewater equipment. Grease builds up inside pipes as it sticks to pipe walls and, if it enters a natural water course, fats, oils, grease and starch (FOGS) can seriously damage the environment. This damage is extremely costly to local authorities so proper management of FOGS is heavily enforced. Failure to effectively manage buildup could lead to heavy fines or even closure of commercial businesses.

Grease traps collect and reduce the number of FOGS entering the main sewers, helping to prevent drain blockages, bad smells and pest infestations. They can be located above or below ground, inside or outside your property, but positioned within the wastewater drain that connects your sinks and appliances to the sewer system. Fats and oils are much less dense than water, so they float to the top so, when wastewater enters a grease trap, it slows the water flow down significantly, separating solids to the bottom layer, wastewater in the middle and FOGS at the top. Wastewater is then allowed to flow into the sewer, while the FOGS are trapped.

Water and oil don’t mix. Animal fats and vegetable oils are much less dense than water, so they float to the top. In a grease trap, waste that flows through is slowed down and allowed a settlement period where solid waste sinks to the bottom and FOGS float to the top. A trap on the outlet prevents FOGS flowing through, permitting only the cleaner middle layer of wastewater to flow into the sewer system. Your grease trap needs to be properly maintained to ensure its continued effectiveness with regular cleaning required every two to four weeks by a licensed contractor.

Grease traps ensure grease and other build-up does not enter the main sewer system. Whether they’re attached to sinks, dishwashers or any other wastewater appliance that produce FOG, grease traps all perform the same basic function, with perhaps slightly different approaches. The size of the grease trap you’ll need will depend on the flow rate of the wastewater running through it — the higher the flow rate, the bigger the grease trap. At Tanks Direct we stock a wide range of grease traps in different size options to suit every flow rate.

Grease traps are a popular method of managing fats, oils and grease. At Tanks Direct we stock two types of grease traps for FOGS management — manual and automatic. Both do the same job of separating FOGS, solids and water within the tank, helping to prevent grease related issues. By slowing the flow of waste as it enters the grease trap and letting the wastewater cool, the elements naturally separate with solids sinking to the bottom, FOGS floating to the top and water remaining in the middle. What happens with each of these elements next is what differentiates a manual and automatic grease trap.

Manual grease traps are inexpensive and cheap to install. They simply contain and hold the FOGS until they are cleaned out. Automatic grease traps, also known as Automatic Grease Removal Units (or AGRUs), are more expensive than manual grease trap. However, automatic units systematically reheat and skim out the top layer of the tank where the FOGS sit, depositing it into a container where it can be disposed of easily. A separate filter catches any solid matter, which can be easily accessed and removed for disposal.

A sewage pump station is a storage chamber incorporating a sewage pump which transfer either the foul or surface water to a local drain, manhole, sewer or soakaway pit.

A pumping station is used where a normal gravity system cannot be, either because there is insufficient fall over a distance, or the common collecting point is lower than the discharge point.

To see our full range of pumping stations click - https://www.tanks-direct.co.uk/waste-water-tanks/sewage-pump-stations/c1011

A sewage pump is a submerged pump that moves sewage solids from one point to another, usually from a septic tank or sewage treatment plant to a percolation area or soakaway pit which is a distance away of uphill. Alternatively, it can be used to pump into a gravity flow sewer mains.

Used to transfer waste liquids and solids from one place to another, a sewage pump is often referred to as a submersible sewage pump since the pump is submerged most of the time. Sewage pumps have a motor that rotates an impeller to create pressure that pushes the waste into a discharge pipe. In residential applications, the sewage is generally pumped from a sewage basin to a sewer system or a septic tank. Sewage pumps can be manual, automatic or dual mode, where the pump can be used as both manual and automatic. It is not recommended to use a manual sewage pump inside of a sewage basin due to the risk of sewage overflow.

Removing the pump

1. Begin by isolating the effected pump by switching to ‘Off’ on the control panel facia. Please note: if the pumping station will be remaining in service — with the other pump working on its own — it is essential that the effected pump controls are disabled by isolating or removing fuses.
2. Disconnect the effected pump motor cables at the control panel terminals, carefully noting the terminal positions for each wire. Plug off the cable entry hole at the panel.
3. Close the control panel door and return the main isolator to ‘On’.
4. Lift the effected pump clear of the chamber using the lifting chain provided. Please check the pump weight before attempting to manual lift. If specified on ordering, lifting equipment will have been supplied. The coupling fitted to the pump permits it to be removed and refitted simply by lifting it clear with the chain, the pump assembly sliding up and down the guide rail. No manual disconnection of pipework is required, and it is therefore not necessary for personnel to enter the chamber to remove a pump for servicing.
5. Hose the pump off thoroughly.

Pump refitting

1. Check the effected pump switch on the control panel facia is still in the ‘Off’ position and switch the main isolator to ‘Off’.
2. Lower the pump back down into the chamber on its guide rail, using the lifting chain provided. When in position on its pedestal, its own weight will lock the pump discharge connection into position.
3. Re-connect the pump cable at the panel terminals, taking care to ensure the gland entry is properly re-sealed.
4. Refit or re-connect fuses as required.
5. Close the panel door and switch the main isolator back to ‘On’. Reset the pump switch to ‘Auto’ mode and check for correct operation of both pumps through a complete set of cycles in accordance with the procedures in ‘Start up’.

With the right care and maintenance, your sewage pump should last for many years. There are, however, several factors that will affect the lifespan of your sewage pump. If your sewage pump is not correctly installed to begin with, its lifespan will decrease. That is why we recommend your sewage pump is installed by a fully qualified engineer. We’d also advise that your sewage pump is regularly serviced to identify any potential issues and prevent it getting blocked. With the correct installation and ongoing maintenance, sewage pumps have the potential to last for over 30 years.

Tanks are sized on the number of people using the system, you should allow 150 litres per person multiplied by the number of people using the property to calculate your 24hr storage capacity.

For commercial properties please contact us, and we can help size this for you. 

No the tanks are supplied without an inlet hole, this is usually drilled on site however we do supply the seal to make the hole water tight and should you require us to drill this for you at the factory, we can offer this also.

Sewage pumps are available in a few different options including effluent pumps, grinder pumps or macerator pumps and submersible pumps. Effluent pumps remove the grey wastewater that stays in your septic tank after the solids have settled and are good for residential and small commercial applications.

Grinder pumps or macerator pumps collect wastewater from your household appliances and fixtures including toilets, washing machines, and bathtubs. Grinder or macerator pumps works by the pump grinding the waste into a fine slurry before pumping it to your septic tank when the water in the tank reaches a certain level from a holding tank to collect waste. Submersible pumps are used for residential, commercial, and agricultural applications.

If you are unsure of the type of sewage pump you need, we are more than willing to help. Please give us a call or send us an email.

Effluent pumps are generally more efficient than other sewage pumps as they are only pumping grey water. However, the effluent pumps may not be suitable for your use. The most efficient sewage would be the one that is most suited to your application and system size. If you are unsure of the type of sewage pump you need, we are more than willing to help. Please give us a call or send us an email.

Your sewage pump should not run constantly. Usually it should run from 10 to 15 seconds until the float switch detects the water level has dropped adequately. It will then cut off. If your sewage pump is running constantly it may need to be serviced, repaired or replaced. The average life expectancy of a sewage pump is about 10 years.

To see our full range of sewage pumps click - https://www.tanks-direct.co.uk/water-tanks/pumps/sewage-and-waste-water-pumps/c1049

In our 2” vortex range we use Hippo 50 pumps for up to 6m head and Hippo 100 pumps for up to 10m head. In our 2” macerator range we use Semison 125GR pumps, in our 2½” vortex range we use Semison 650 pumps and lastly in our 3” vortex range we use hippo 80-200. Details of which can be found either on our website or a copy can be sent across please call for more information.

You may need to service or replace your sewage pump is you find the following: -

• If the water at the discharge point is dirty or brown
• The pump is not working at all or sounds like it’s struggling to pump
• Your pump is constantly running and doesn’t switch off even though no one is using the facilities in the building
• Sewage is backed up into the building
• There is a smell of sewage
• There is no fluid emptying from the holding tank
• There is no power to the pump

If you do require a Service, please give a ring to arrange.

Yes, it is cost effective to get your sewage pump regularly maintained to lengthen the life of the pump. Typically pump servicing will include: -

• Cleaning out the sump chamber
• Cleaning of pumps and float switch
• Electrical test of pumps and all floats
• Checking all cables for damages and general wear

Kingspan Klargester is one of the world's leading manufacturers of wastewater treatment systems, with over 65 years experience, within the industry, With a global reputation specialising in the manufacture of packaged pollution control products, Klargester has developed a range of innovative products, revolutionising methods of dealing with the treatment of sewage on sites where mains drainage is not available.

Their extensive range of Klargester products include Sewage Treatment plants, septic tanks, Cesspools, fuel and oil separators and grease traps.

As sludge builds up in your septic tank over time, you must get it removed before it exceeds the maximum capacity. As a minimum, we recommend that you have your wastewater treatment system desludged once a year. Ensure the company you use to dispose of your waste is a registered waste carrier. It is also important to have your sewage treatment system regularly maintained in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. If there are any leaks, cracks or blockages in your system, it is essential to get these repaired in a timely manner.

The BioDisc uses a Rotating Biological Contractor (RBC) system which includes three stages to treat waste water. After the water has passed through a primary settlement tank, where heavy solids settle to form a sludge in the bottom of the tank, it moves into the Biozone for breaking down by microorganisms on the RBC. Suspended solids return to the primary settlement zone, and the liquor is transferred to the second stage Biozone for further treatment. Any remaining solids are settled out in the final settlement tank, leaving the remaining effluent clean enough to be discharged into a watercourse.

If you are planning to install a new septic tank, you will need planning permission from the local authority. This applies to residential sites, as well as commercial. If you already have an existing septic tank installed, either at home or as part of your business premises, you won’t need planning permission if you are simply intending to replace it. It doesn’t matter how old your existing septic tank system is — you can have it upgraded or replaced entirely, and you won’t require planning permission from your local authority.

Septic tanks sit underground and release wastewater slowly into the surrounding environment. For this reason, they must be installed at least seven metres away from a house or ‘habitable property’ and at least 50 metres away from any water sources. It is very important that you comply with all regulations for both health and safety and environmental reasons. You will also need to check if you need a permit, which usually depends on where you intend to release your wastewater.

Several factors can affect the lifespan of your pump. For example, if you live in a hard water area, where there are higher quantities of dissolved minerals like magnesium and calcium running through your system, your shower pump is likely to age quicker. This is because when heated, dissolved calcium reacts to form solid carbon carbonate that can build up in your pump — the same scale you see in your kitchen kettle. The intensity it is used will also affect how long it lasts. Heavy, intensive use is likely to decrease its lifespan quicker compared to light, occasional use. However, as a generalised and rough estimation, it is expected that an average single shower pump will last around eight years.

Stuart Turner pride themselves on the quality of their products, with stringent quality control operations in place to ensure the longevity and durability of their pumps. They provide a wide range of water boosting systems from simple pumps to packaged pump systems for large buildings, all designed to last for many years without requiring much maintenance.

Stuart Turner manufacture a wide variety of pumps that provide solutions to various problems associated with low water pressure. From single shower pumps to large water pressure booster systems for high occupancy buildings, you’ll find the perfect Stuart Turner water pump for your needs at Tanks Direct.

Our range of Stuart Turner’s Mainsboost systems deliver improved performance from unvented water cylinders and combination boilers. If your incoming mains pressure is greater than 2 bar, but the flow is insufficient, the quiet Mainsboost vessel systems are ideal, with no electrical supply required. The Mainsboost Flomate system is designed to be connected directly to the incoming mains to provide a regulated flow of water and can be installed discreetly within a standard kitchen cupboard unit. If you’re looking for a slimline solution, the innovative Mainsboost iBoost system will fit within a standard 600 mm cabinet. Stuart Turner’s Wasteflo range simply and efficiently removes wastewater, with slimline macerators for toilets and lifting stations that allow you to create a shower room, kitchen, or utility room anywhere. We also stock the Stuart Turner Pulse collection, a range of commercial circulators for HVAC applications. If you need any help or advice on which Stuart Turner pump is right for you, please contact our friendly team.

Manufactured in England, Enduramaxx is one of the leading manufacturers of plastic tanks with in the UK.

With a vast range of products, ranging from Rainwater harvesting, Agricultural, potable, non-potable, chemical and many more.

Check out our range of Enduramaxx tanks here

A Bunded Oil Tank is simply a tank within a tank. The fuel is stored in the inner tank and the outer tank acts as a failsafe so that in the event of a spillage, excess fuel will collect in the bund. They are a requirement at commercial, industrial and institutional premises.

Unfortunately not. The pumps and ancillary equipment fitted to these tanks are suitable only for use with Diesel or Biodiesel, as per product specifications. Dispensing a non-approved fuel from this equipment could result in serious injury or death.

Diesel (D) to British Standard BS2869. Additionally, all Fuel Stations, are also suitable for the storage and dispensing of BioDiesel with a bio-element of up to 8% concentration.

Water pressure is the force water that is pushed through water pipes into premises. This pressure determines how quickly water flows from your taps, shower heads and appliances such as washing machines and dishwashers.

If the water pressure in your household pipes are low, then water will flow slowly out of your taps or shower, taking it longer to fill up a sink, bath or shower. This is especially true for an upstairs bathroom (after all, the water may need to travel upwards against gravity to get to the source)

Water pressure is measured in bar or psi (pounds per square inch). One bar of water pressure is needed to raise water 10 metres high, so the higher the water must travel, the lower the water pressure will be.

Gravity creates pressure naturally, so when your water comes to you, it is already pressurized. In some cases, booster stations help to maintain the pressure throughout the water lines. If your water comes from a private well, then your water is pressurized through a tank that maintains a range of pressure

There are differences between water pressure and water flow. Water flow is the volume of water delivered and is measured in litres per minute. Water pressure is the force or speed the water is delivered. Both are affected by the size and condition of the pipe work the water is flowing through.

Due to regulation, you cannot pump directly onto a mains water line for the whole property, without storing water and creating an overflow. To achieve this we supply the boosters systems with break tanks, as they are commonly known, to compliantly store the water to act as a reservoir and which the pump draws from.

Compact Units

If you use lots of appliances at the same time you water pressure will reduce, such as dishwashers and washing machines. If you have an older property, you may find your water pipe is smaller than those used in modern houses. Smaller pipes supply less water and can reduce pressure and flow.

When water pressure in your house is low, it is most likely the water pressure coming into your house is lower than the property requires. However, if you notice that the low pressure is only to just one or a few appliances then it could be an issue with that fixture, or a pipe that runs into your property.

The amount of water pressure in your home may vary depending on the time of the day and the ground level of your property. Check that the water meter valve and the main shut off valve are fully opened.

However, while these factors play a part, your water authority is required to supply a minimum of 0.7 bar of pressure. If the mains pressure into your property is consistently low, you may need to fit a booster pump to your plumbing system.

To see our full range of booster pump sets, please click - Booster Pump Sets

It is possible to boost mains water pressure. To do this a booster pump can be fitted to the mains cold water supply. In compliance with water fitting regulations, this is up to 12 litres per minute. Generally, a mains booster pump can improve the performance of all the water appliances and fixtures in your home.

There are two reasons why water may need to be boosted: (1) to give a better flow and pressure at the draw-off point in a domestic situation, or (2) as a method of raising the water supply in high-rise buildings above the height that the mains will supply.

A booster pump set, helps to get to optimum pressure within the current system, so you should get constant water pressure whether you are downstairs in the kitchen or up on the 3rd floor having a shower.

‘Packaged’ pumping sets or Booster Sets are installed consisting of dual pumps (unless single pump is selected, then this would only be one pump) to overcome the problem of failure of (or the need to renew) one of the pumps. The second pump also assists at times of high demand on the system, cutting in as necessary. To prevent pump seizure and stagnation of water, the pumps should be designed to work alternately. Two types of system will be found: those using pressure-sensing devices and those using float switches.

Break tanks are used to help boost pressure within a water system, where the current water pressure is not strong enough to supply the requirements of the building. Typically, break tanks are fitted with an air gap between the inlet and maximum water level to prevent backflow into the mains water supply.

To determine the size of the break tank required, there are a few things to consider.

Occupancy of the building

This is a big factor, as you need to understand how much water is required within the property. For example a hotel requires more water storage per bed space than a hostel.

Below are some examples of recommended minimum storage levels for each type of premises.

Hotel - 200 Litres per bed space

Office without Canteen - 40 Litres per employee

Office with Canteen - 45 Litres per employee

Restaurant - 7 litres per meal

Primary School - 15 litres per pupil

Secondary School - 20 Litres per pupil

Nursing Home - 120 Litres per bed space

(Source: BS EN 806 Part 2)

Please consider when using this calculation, the peak occupancy of the building. 

When sizing for a domestic building, a rough guide of 90 litres per bed space should be sufficient, however high-end properties may require additional storage. 

Another consideration would be the expected peak flow of the premises. This is calculated when sizing a booster set. In determining the peak flow rate, we must consider how much water storage must be provided to facilitate this flow rate.

Tanks Direct recommend that a minimum of 15 minutes' storage, according to the peak flow rate of the booster set, should be provided in a booster set break tank within a commercial installation. For example, a booster set with a peak design flow rate of 1.1 litres/second, or 66 litres/minute, requires a break tank with a capacity of at least 990 litres. 

Other factors such as the tank inlet flow rate and the usage patterns of the building should also be taken into account - buildings with a poor rate of mains water supply will require greater storage. This will also be influenced by the siting of the break tank - a tank on the ground floor of a building will fill at a higher rate than a tank on an upper floor or in the roof space. Siting a tank in the roof space of a building is likely to necessitate a larger storage volume.

For this, we would require a breakdown of the cold water outlet for the whole property, i.e. 2 W/C’s, 4 Wash hand basins and a shower. Once we have calculated the building water demand, we can then specify the right storage tank, this is an industry standard of a capacity to cope with a 10-minute run time at full demand, most 3-4 bedroom properties for example work out at around 250L.

For most single property installation, pressure isn’t a huge concern, as low head booster systems that run up to 3 bar will produce more than sufficient pressure for a 2-story property.

This depends on a couple of factors, the demand of the building if you want it sharing across 2 pumps, but also the importance of the water supply, for example, manufacturing facilities who need wash down cannot afford the downtime of a single pump etc. With a twin pump system, you can share the duty across 2 pumps, which both pumps would run at 50% of total duty, or on duty standby, where each pump would be capable of 100% of total duty.

This is a common issue, which is why we offer a compact solution as the Flyvar Booster system which is a compact system where the pump(s) are in the tank to save space, these can also be installed externally with the addition of an inverter housing cover, to protect it from the elements.

This is a service we can carry out, however with the use of modern technically, we only require the standard set of information, and then just basic measurements of the space it is going into, widths of doors and room space etc, all of this we can now do with the use of online video calls and pictures.

Commissioning would be recommended. These are specialist systems and without a commissioning visit, there is no peace of mind with the end user that the warranty as not been affected due to incorrect installation. Incorrect operation is  easily done if the system is not correctly commissioning, so this is a service we offer ourselves, so there is a clear line of liability if something was to go wrong with the set, this protects everyone.

Head is the height in which the pump is lifting the waste, measured from cover level of the pump station, to the cover level of the discharge manhole. With this measurement we can ensure we supply a pump powerful enough to lift the waste up that high. We will need to know this and also the distance that it is pumping to make sure the pump quoted is suitable.

An automatic pump is a pump that will automatically turn itself on and off as the liquid level rises and falls. These pumps are usually longer lasting as they do not burn out but switch off automatically if there is no liquid to pump therefore, they do not run dry.

If you have an application where the risk of blockages that could enter the drain run is higher than usual, for example if the property is rented, tenants could unwillingly block the pump, this is also a problem if it is an apartment block as you wouldn’t be able to source who was responsible for blocking It, but everyone would need to pay their share to fix it.

Also, macerator pumps, because of how they cut through the waste, they can pump a much higher head (vertical distance), so when compared to vortex pumps, if you have anything over 10m, you will need to be selecting macerator pumps. Always check the pump flow curves for your application or you can call to speak to one of our technical team if you want to be sure the pumps will do the task at hand.

If you are concerned about the risk of blockages but also need a flow rate which macerator pumps can’t provide, or even if it’s purely just a faster flow rate you need, a larger 65mm or 80mm pump will be able to achieve this, calculating a specific flow rate to your application is difficult and would be best speaking to a member of our technical team to help specify the right pumps for your station.

Waste pumps and your wastewater system in general need regular servicing to keep it in working order. A general desludging of your system and a check of the components such as the sewage pump will keep the sewage treatment system in good working order for longer.

Generally, a good rule of thumb for servicing your sewage pump would be every 1 to 2 years or every time you empty your septic tank. It is a good idea to get it checked regularly to avoid a costly replacement further down the line.

When you consider all the pumping that occurs globally, whether in large industrial plants or in domestic heating systems, this accounts for almost 20% of the world's energy consumption. Because of this there is a huge opportunity in the pumping industry to make a significant contribution to using our energy resources efficiently. In pumping applications where the duty required is not constant, it is highly likely that installing a variable speed pump will result in significant energy savings - likely to be between 30% and 50% in many applications.

Other benefits of variable speed pumps include:

1. Improved reliability

Because variable speed pumps run at speeds below their maximum, there is a reduction in wear, particularly in mechanical seals.

2. Improved control

Variable speed pump controller can monitor small variations in pressure and make adjustments accordingly. This also means there is less liklihood of sudden changes in flow or pressure.

Variable speed pumps should be used in any installation where the pump duty is not constant. If a pump duty is constant a fixed speed pump may be the most cost-effective option.  However, even in fixed duty applications there may be an advantage to running a pump below its maximum speed. A motor running at 80% of its maximum speed uses 48% less energy.

1. Vibrations

Although running pumps below their maximum speed will tend to reduce overall system noise, altering the speed of a pump may result in structural resonances that would not occur at the pump's maximum speed. This may cause vibration which can be harmful to equipment and cause an increase in noise at certain frequencies. There are a number of products that help to alleviate these potential issues.

2. Higher initial cost

Because of the added complexity of an inverter drive, variable speed pumps and systems which include variable speed pumps will cost more initially than a fixed speed equivalent. However, this additional cost is invariably outweighed by the long-term energy cost saving.

This depends on your existing pump and the type of installation you have or are planning on. The vertical Hippo 50 has a vertical port discharges via a 2” female port and the horizontal Hippo 50 discharges via a horizontal 2” female port but is also DN50 flanged

Vortex impeller sewage pumps use centrifugal action. In this sewage pump. the impeller rotates and causes a tornado-like action that pulls the waste into the pump and then sends it into the discharge pipe with little or no contact with the impeller which helps the pump to withstand any stringy material it may encounter. This means there is a much lower chance of clogging the impeller. 

To see our range of sewage pumps click - https://www.tanks-direct.co.uk/waste-water-tanks/waste-water-pumps/sewage-pumps/c1039

A grinder pump takes the wastewater from the holding tank, grinding any waste into a fine slurry and then pumps it into a sewage treatment plant. They can pump over much longer distances but at a slower rate because they are high pressure and low volume pumps.

To see our grinder pumps click - https://www.tanks-direct.co.uk/semisom-125-gr-automatic-submersible-grinder-pump/p5628

 A submersible pump means that the pump needs to be submerged or covered in liquid specifically the type specified on the pump such as water, wastewater, sewage etc.

Macerator pumps are used only for heads higher than 10m and with a low flow rate when you have a discharge rate restriction imposed by the water authority who own the sewer you discharging into.

If a booster or compact set is being housed externally, you will need an enclosure to protect the inverter from the elements so anything electronic needs to be protected by an enclosure of some sort, never leave the booster set to face the elements

You require at least 500mm above the break tank so you can service it and inspect it when required. Also, a booster just needs to be installed in a maintainable space so that the inverters can be reviewed if needed via clear walkways and facing into the room, not tucked away down the side of a plant room.